Jean Saung
Emergence
The subtle presence of imperceptible shifts, hopeful vulnerability, and restless potential. In Emergence, the fabric and body merge in zero waste garments, beginning as rectangles or squares and resulting in organic draping and structured folding.
The meeting of day and night, the seen and unseen.
Materials
Duchess Satin, Silk/Polyester Crinkle, Thai Silk, Organza, Silk Satin.
The jewelry pieces are sterling silver with peacock feather details. The body of the moth acts as a hinge allowing the wings to flap when the rings are moved together and apart.
Process
I was initially inspired by my zero waste concept as well as my jewelry designs of silver moth rings. I merged the two for a sustainable evening wear collection with the colors of moths expanding their wings upon emerging from its cocoon, the gradual deepening of darkness and moonrise.
My sketches are of silhouettes and the distribution of volume on the figure without predetermined draping or details.
The first samples are draped in muslin:
Starting with a rough sketch and calculations of the layout of squares and rectangles on the body based on the silhouette of the design, I then factor in areas with more or less volume. After cutting the rectangles and/or squares, I draw vertical lines indicating the grain of the fabric. I often mark the seam allowances then secure them to anchor points where the seams match up. The curves of the figure determine darts, draping, and the distribution of volume.
The draping is then transferred to pattern paper to reproduce the same effect on the opposite side of the symmetrical design. The outfit is then ready for fitting on a model, adjustments, and ultimately sewn into final fabric.